In the third episode of the Cottage Life Podcast Season 3, Editor Michelle Kelly talks with Dr. Savannah Howes-Smith about how to take care of your pup in the wilderness, including first aid tips. Listen here or visit cottagelife.com for access to all of the episodes.
It’s a peaceful spring evening. We linger over our tea and watch as the sky above the lake turns pink. The dog crunches up the last of his dinner.
Wait. We fed the dog much earlier. I turn to see what, exactly, Zephyr is eating—and leap out of my chair. Somehow we forgot a plate of warfarin that we’d put behind the stove for the winter. The dog found it and is now chowing down. I have no idea what to do.
Cottage country is a paradise for dogs, but it’s a perilous paradise. Here’s how to handle the most common mishaps yourself (and when to hit the vet clinic ASAP).
Dog vs. mouse poison
This one is a true emergency. While a dog that eats mouse poison will seem fine at first, the poison eventually causes internal bleeding, and the symptoms, such as lethargy or bloody urine, may not appear for several weeks.
The dog needs to vomit up the poison right away. “Food usually passes from the stomach within four hours, so vomiting should take place well before this,” says Celia Christensen, a vet at the Kenora Veterinary Clinic. Whether or not to induce vomiting on your own depends on the situation, says Kit Lee of Parry Sound Animal Hospital. Call the vet for advice first. “If it’s a long way to the vet, or you don’t know when the dog ate the poison, it’s better to induce vomiting right away,” says Lee. But don’t waste a lot of time on futile attempts when you could be at a nearby clinic. Plus, if the dog has heart or swallowing issues or is otherwise frail, it’s safer not to DIY.
How to do it
Administer 1 to 2 ml of hydrogen peroxide per kilogram of dog (but don’t exceed 125 ml, no matter how big the animal). “Pour or squirt it into the corner of his mouth, and then hold his mouth closed and tilt his head back,” says Lee. After he’s swallowed, chase that with the same amount of water. Alternatively, some dogs will drink the peroxide if you mix it with milk, says Christensen. There will be foaming and retching, hopefully followed by a nice pile of pellets. Some vets will want to see the dog and administer activated charcoal to help neutralize any remaining poison, even if the dog has vomited. And regardless, you’ll need to do a follow-up visit (generally within a few days), so the vet can determine if the dog needs further treatment.
Dog vs. fish hooks
“If the hook is barbed,” says Carol Sanio of Minden Animal Hospital, “you can’t just pull it out.” If it’s in the dog’s nose (painful!) or embedded in flesh, let a vet freeze the area first.
How to do it
If the hook is right through the lip, start with any other exposed barbs (if it’s a multi-barbed lure). Use wire cutters to clip them off or wrap the whole cluster in several layers of duct tape. You don’t want to get snagged yourself. Then, clip off the barb of the offending hook and pull the hook out. (Some hooks are barbless; pull them out the way they went in.)
Dog vs. wildlife
Porcupine quills
“Dogs never learn about porcupines,” says Sanio. “I see the same dogs over and over.” If there are only a handful of quills, and there are none near the eyes or inside the mouth (check very carefully), you can try removing them yourself. Otherwise, it’s a midnight run to the pros.
How to do it
Grasp the quill with pliers close to the skin, and pull straight out quickly. Yes, it hurts! Don’t cut the ends off the quills—it only makes them harder to find and grasp.
Skunk spray
Sadly, there’s not much a vet can do about bad smells. You’re on your own with this one.
How to do it
The main problem for the dog is stinging eyes— if Fido’s rubbing his face on the ground or clawing at his eyes, that’s why. First, carefully flush them out using saline solution or clean water, then attack his coat. You can buy special ointment from the vet to protect the dog’s eyes while you clean, or smear petroleum jelly around (not in) them. Commercial solutions are available to combat skunk odour, but Lee suggests this peroxide-baking soda mixture: 1 quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide; 1/4 cup (60 ml) baking soda; and 1 to 2 tsp (5 to 10 ml) liquid soap, shampoo, or dish detergent. Mix and work into the animal’s coat. Let sit for five minutes and rinse thoroughly. Don’t mix this ahead of time and store it. Pressure can build up and burst the container.
Bites and scratches
It’s not just bears; even a groundhog, if cornered, can tear a dog’s face to ribbons. But let’s say your dog tangles with something less ferocious and has only a few minor wounds. Assuming Fido’s rabies vaccination is up to date (it’s the law), start by searching your dog’s coat carefully, especially anywhere he’s licking, for hidden lacerations or puncture wounds, says Sanio. “You can’t clean a puncture wound properly, so it’s likely to get infected. You can wait for regular office hours, but the dog should be seen.” Deep cuts that may need stitches require a vet within 12 hours.
How to do it
Same as for people: stop the bleeding with direct pressure (if you can’t, it’s off to the clinic). For scratches and shallow lacerations, wash with an antiseptic cleaner or antibacterial soap, trimming the fur around the wound for better access, if need be. Keep the wound clean and dry, and watch for fever or other signs of infection, such as swelling, heat, or pus at the site of the injury.
Dog vs. insects
Bees, wasps, blackflies: The danger of insect stings is allergic reaction, and in extreme cases, anaphylaxis. “Typically, their eyelids and lips swell up, sometimes alarmingly,” says Jeff Simmons, a vet with Peterborough Pet Hospital. Antihistamine (such as Benadryl) is the first line of defence. (The dosage depends on the size of the dog—call your vet for instructions.) Give a dose right away for a bee sting to the mouth, multiple stings, if you see severe swelling, or if the dog just seems unwell.
Watch carefully. Call for advice if you don’t see improvement within 30 minutes. (Your dog may be sleepy from the antihistamine—that’s okay.) And, “if the dog is having trouble breathing, get him to a vet,” says Simmons. If necessary, you can help open the airway by “extending the neck and pulling out the tongue,” says Christensen.
How to do it
It may not be easy to get a dog with a swollen tongue to take a pill. Liquid antihistamine, administered with a medicine syringe or an eyedropper, is a good alternative—just trickle it into the pocket inside his cheek.
Ticks:The trick with ticks is to get the insect’s head and jaws out, not just the body. This is especially important with deer ticks, which carry Lyme disease, says Simmons. “If there’s been Lyme disease in your area, learn to identify the ticks that carry it,” he suggests. “And know the symptoms to watch for: within days of being bitten, an animal with Lyme disease will have painful joints and fever.” If your energetic, active dog starts easing up carefully from his bed, hesitating at stairs, and walking stiffly, phone the vet.
How to do it
“Grab the tick right at the head, close to the skin, with tweezers, and pull straight out,” says Lee. Another option, she says, is a gadget called the “Tick Twister.” It gets the head out easily and is worth buying for frequent users or the simply squeamish.
Dog vs. the sun
Hyperthermia is a real danger for animals that can’t cool off by sweating, says Simmons. “The mistake people make is they throw the ball for the dog to swim after, thinking that’s going to cool him off. But on really hot days, a dog’s body temperature will continue to rise.”
A dog that’s in shock from hyperthermia becomes lethargic and unresponsive. “The animal needs to be cooled down fast,” says Simmons. You should get to the clinic, but “if it’s an hour away and the car’s hot, cool him down first.”
How to do it
Lower the dog’s core temperature by covering him in cool (not cold), wet towels and applying wet cloths to the pads of his paws. “If you can get his temp down to 39°C within an hour, he’ll usually be okay,” says Simmons. By the way, dogs (especially white ones or those with scant fur) can get sunburn too. Sanio recommends a thick zinc oxide ointment, such as Penaten, for vulnerable areas—the top of the nose, for example. And don’t let Fido snooze in the hot noon sun with his belly exposed.
For any pet injury, knowing what to do is only half the battle. Home treatment is only possible if your dog cooperates, notes Lee: “If the dog is panicked and won’t let you near him, put him in a crate and bring him in.” Lucky for us, Zephyr patiently endured the peroxide treatment and, after an anxious 15 minutes, obligingly threw up on the dock. He was fine— and, eventually, I was too.
Are you prepared for a pet emergency?
A little advance prep can save you a world of worry. Here’s what to do before the yelping starts:
- Know whom to call. Find your nearest vet and phone. Ask what kind of emergency/after-hours services are available in your area. Post the info.
- Learn about the hazards. Ask which infections and diseases have been cropping up in your geographical area, for example, blastomycosis (potentially fatal and caused by breathing in fungus spores) or leptospirosis (often from bacteria in contaminated water). Find out how to prevent exposure.
- Stock up on first-aid supplies. Your doggy first-aid supplies should include:
- Benadryl or another antihistamine recommended by your vet
- Hydrogen peroxide to induce vomiting
- De-skunking kit: peroxide (lots of it) and baking soda, or a commercial solution, and ointment or petroleum jelly to protect the eyes
- Strong tweezers or Tick Twister for removing ticks
- Wire cutters and a set of pliers
- Antiseptic cleaner
- Penaten or another thick zinc oxide treatment
- A self-adhesive wrap bandage for covering a cut paw
- Know your doses. How much medication is correct for your dog’s size? Ask and write it down.
Swimmer’s tail: what is it?
Your dog (typically a Lab or other sporting breed) is ecstatic to be back at the lake, and swims his noble heart out all day. The next morning, he can’t sit down, holds his tail tightly against his body, and yelps in pain when he tries to give you a friendly wag. “They use their tails as a rudder,” vet Carol Sanio explains. “It’s like doing nothing all winter, and then running a marathon.” This can be very painful, so check in with your vet about pain relief. Otherwise, keep the dog out of the water until he’s better, and then make him build up his wagging muscles more gradually.
What about cats?
In general, cats are less accident prone than dogs. The same mishaps can happen, though. The treatment, in most cases, is the same—just make sure that any medication you administer is safe for cats.
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