Liquid smoke shocker: When N.Y.C. chef David Chang drips liquid smoke into his signature eggs-and-caviar, barbecue purists clutch their pearls in horror. Liquid smoke, long reviled as a heavy-handed, uncouth bully, is showing up in respectable recipes these days. Use it with restraint in chili, baked beans, pulled pork, and onion soup. While barbecue sauces can stand up to liquid smoke, add a dash at a time to mayo (for burgers and potato salad), cream soups, or cheese sauces—it easily overpowers delicate flavours.