Consider the oyster. The bivalve, water-filtering mollusc is sustainable, nutritious, and surprisingly easy to serve outdoors. “My wife and I celebrated our twenty-first wedding anniversary on the beach, with a bag of oysters and a bottle of wine,” says Jason Kleinfeld, the executive chef at Cardero’s Restaurant on Vancouver’s Coal Harbour. “That’s all we needed.”
Get fresh oysters, of course, from a fishmonger you trust, says Kleinfeld. But don’t fuss over harvest dates—oysters are tough. They stay fresh for several weeks when stored properly. They should feel heavy, which means they’re full of liquid, and they shouldn’t be gaping open (no more than a few millimetres).
Have fun with a few different varieties. West Coast oysters tend to be plump, says Kleinfeld, while East coasters are more translucent and some, such as Kusshi oysters, have a light, cucumber-like crunch. He also likes Kumamotos and Raspberry Point oysters from P.E.I.
Transporting and storing oysters is simple—keep them on ice, in a cooler. With the rounded cup-side facing down, if possible, so they don’t lose any liquid. Shucking an oyster, Kleinfeld says, “is like surfing. It’s technique, not strength.” Watch some YouTube videos to see how to insert an oyster knife at the hinge, winkle it back and forth gently to open the shell, and cut the adductor muscle. Slide the knife under the oyster meat to release it, pick out any shell fragments—happens to everyone—and pair your achievement with a crisp Sancerre or Chablis, a Pilsner, or a dry cider.
Occasionally you’ll open a bad oyster, and your nose will know. “Do not engage,” warns Kleinfeld. “And don’t just throw it away. Throw it far away.”
What if you forget the oyster knife at home? “A big flat-head screwdriver works too,” says chef. “Just make sure it’s clean.”
Topping it all off
“Something a little tart, a little citrusy,” is usually what chef Jason Kleinfeld uses to top his oysters—but you can top them however you like. Here are our suggestions:
Classic mignonette
Red wine vinegar + minced shallot + crushed black pepper + red wine
Bloody Mary
Tomato juice + vodka + Worcestershire sauce
Asian mignonette
Rice vinegar + a splash of soy sauce or ponzo + grated ginger + sesame oil
Gin and tonic
Gin + tonic water + grated cucumber
Creamed horseradish
Freshly grated horseradish + lemon juice + sour cream
Quick-pickled red onion
Cider vinegar + thinly sliced red onion
“Take care with your presentation. An oyster shouldn’t look like cat food,” says Kleinfeld. Yes, chef!
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