You’re sunk! Maybe that’s a worst-case scenario, but after your boat’s bilge pump stops working, worst-case suddenly becomes karmic likelihood. When water gets into your boat, it flows to the lowest point in the hull, where the bilge pump spits it out. If the pump’s not working as it should, it’s time to start doing a little troubleshooting.
Check the battery: switch on the boat lights or another powered device to confirm that the battery has charge. Look for a blown in-line fuse, tripped circuit breaker, or an accessory wire that’s not connected to the battery—those are all easy fixes. Many pumps have a manual switch, usually located near the driver. If an automatic pump works with the manual switch on, suspect the float switch. Those are all the non-dirty checks; now you’re gonna have to get at the bilge.
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Signs of heat damage to the pump are good indications it has failed and you need a new one. If it looks (and smells) okay, clean any gunk that’s clogging the pump intake screen, the outlet hose, and the float switch (if your automatic pump has one—not all do). Debris can stop the switch from lifting to trigger the pump or dropping again to turn off the pump. Debris at the pump itself can strain the motor. Once you’ve cleared any blockages, lift the switch for a few seconds. If the pump operates until you drop the switch, it looks like you’ve solved the problem. And you’ve seen the value of occasionally cleaning out the bilge.
The next logical check is the electrical system. Inspect the wiring for any breaks or corroded connections. If you find a problem—either with a visual inspection or a multimeter resistance check—fix it, and don’t forget to protect connections from water with heat-shrink tubing.
After all that, if the pump still doesn’t operate, here comes that sinking feeling again. It’s probably time to replace the float switch, the pump, or both.
This article was originally published in the August 2024 issue of Cottage Life.
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