would you try this out?
4. When all the studs are out, remove the wall plates at the ceiling and floor, either with a pry bar alone, or by first severing the nails using a recip saw with a flexible hacksaw blade. This second method reduces the bashing and prying needed to free the plates one at a time. Depending on the wall’s thickness and the blade length, you may have to attack the plates from both sides of the wall.
3. Using a metal-tolerant blade in your recip saw, slice one wall stud near the bottom and top and remove it, then move to the next one.
2. Then, use your reciprocating saw to vertically slice the top and bottom plates of the wall into sections, each about 6'; the idea is to break up the wall into manageable chunks.
Load-bearing walls support crucial floor or roof loads from above, so you can’t open these up without replacing the wall, usually with some kind of post-and-beam equivalent. Almost all exterior walls are load-bearing, but so are some interior ones. Do some detective work to check before you remove anything.
Is the wall supported by a beam or foundation wall directly below? It’s load-bearing. Is the partition oriented perpendicularly to the joists or the roof rafters above? The wall’s probably load-bearing. Although the straightforward design and exposed construction of many cottages can make it easy to see what’s going on, if there’s any doubt about the structural status of a wall, call in a pro. Whether the wall is just for show or is holding the roof up, an engineer can give you the site-specific advice you need to create a safe action plan.
Wires and pipes may pose another challenge. If they run through the condemned partition, then you’ll need to call in an electrician and a plumber to disconnect them before the fun starts. And just because you can’t see a tap or an electrical outlet on the wall doesn’t mean that it’s wire- or pipe-free. Check inside by pulling away some wallboard from floor to ceiling at each end of the wall. Also look in the basement and the attic for wires or pipes entering the wall cavity.
1. If the wall is definitely not load-bearing, and it’s free of wires and pipes (or they’ve been safely disconnected), begin by removing the panelling or drywall.