10 boating bloopers & how to avoid them
No matter how savvy we think we are, we boaters make mistakes. Here's how to prevent some of the most common ones
6. You drive with an alarm sounding.
Worst-case scenario: You ignore your engine alarm because a) you don’t know what it means or b) you think you know better than the monitoring system. Driving that mile back to the cottage could cost you thousands of dollars to replace a seized engine.
Be the pro: Drive at your peril with the engine alarm screaming. It’s telling you something needs your attention, now—most often high engine temperature or low engine oil or pressure. Shut her down to prevent permanent damage after checking the telltale or the temperature gauge to rule out an impeller issue. Next, consult your manual to decode the various sounds your buzzer can make (one long beep versus several short ones, say), check the gauges, and look for signs of overheating (a hot and steamy engine, and even bubbling decals). No easy fix? Get a tow in.
7. You use ethanol-laced gas in your old engine.
Worst-case scenario: Your marina stops offering ethanol-free gas, but you don’t prepare your engine and fuel system for their first sip of alcohol. Now the new gas has caused severe damage to your fuel system components.
Be the pro: Gasoline with ethanol is on tap at highway gas stations, but marinas have resisted stocking it. Its hygroscopic (water-loving) nature can muck up your older engine. Water vapour condenses on cold surfaces inside the tank and gets into the fuel. When enough water collects (about one per cent), a water-ethanol mix separates from the gas and sinks to the bottom of your tank. In your fuel lines and engine, both the water-ethanol duo and the now low-octane fuel can cause metal corrosion, rubber or plastic deterioration, and engine-operation problems.
Unfortunately for your engine, new federal regulations, on top of existing provincial ones, may make it harder for marinas to reliably source ethanol-free gas. Ask a mechanic to check that both your engine and fuel system are compatible with the new fuel. Most late-model boat engines can handle ethanol, up to a maximum of 10 per cent. But with some older ones (mostly pre-1990s), you may need to replace rubber or neoprene hoses and gaskets (about $40 for a new hose on a 10-hp outboard, for example), since these materials can turn into goo when exposed to ethanol. Plus, the resin in some built-in fibreglass fuel tanks made before 1991 can dissolve into the fuel and gunk up filters or the engine.
Once the engine and fuel system are ethanol-ready, you still need to minimize the moist air in your tank. Store portable tanks and boats with built-in tanks in the boathouse, if practical, to get them out of the sun and reduce condensation-causing temperature swings. With a portable tank, close the vent between uses. Keep built-in tanks, which are vented to the outside air, topped up through the boating season and, if the gas will be sitting for more than a month, add a fuel stabilizer recommended by your mechanic. Store tanks empty over winter or, if that’s not possible, fill them right up.
8. You drive at top speed all the time, even after you’re up on a plane.
Worst-case scenario: Driving at top speed is hard on your engine and causes extra wear on its internal components.
Be the pro: Yes, you need a burst of power to get up on a plane. But once you’re settled atop the water, throttle back just until the boat maintains a steady planing speed and a level running angle. Depending on your engine, boat, and load, driving at full throttle, especially if you haven’t set your trim properly, burns as much as double the fuel necessary to go almost the same speed: Running at three-quarters throttle could give you a 25-per-cent fuel savings, while operating at two-thirds full speed uses only half the fuel.
9. You drive with a prop that’s out of balance or damaged.
Worst-case scenario: You ignore that little shimmy telling you the prop has been dinged. The vibration eventually damages the seals in the propeller shaft, which allows water into the lower unit. Water gets into the gear case and dilutes the oil, reducing the lubrication, which causes gears or bearings to seize. The lower unit is damaged and you have to replace it—ka-ching!
Be the pro: If your prop hits something, or you feel a shimmy in the steering or in the boat itself, stop and inspect the blades. If there’s damage—a bent or burred edge, or a missing piece—take the prop to your marina or prop shop for repair or replacement. Ideally, you’ll have a spare propeller (and a floating prop wrench) on board and will know how to install it. If not, limp back to the dock and switch it there.
Your prop shop can repair most minor nicks or bends in an aluminum prop for $90 to $135. A new one costs $150 to $400. If there is water in the gear case, the oil will look milky. Don’t just change the oil—you need to fix the damage that let the water in too. Stainless steel props are harder than aluminum ones, so may not get dinged as easily, but a hit may cause more extensive harm, such as a bent shaft or damaged lower unit.
10. You use nylon line to tow a boat.
Worst-case scenario: While being saved, you tie your nylon bow line to the rescue boat, but it breaks and snaps back mid-tow, unleashing a whip of rope that causes serious damage or injury.
Be the pro: Nylon rope is great for anchoring and for tying up at the dock, but because it both stretches and sinks, it’s not an ideal choice for a tow line.
Your best bet is braided polypropylene rope: It’s strong, won’t stretch, and will float (keeping the line clear of spinning props). Transport Canada regulations require boats to carry a 15-metre (50′) buoyant heaving line. High-quality heaving lines are usually adequate for towing cottage boats under 20′—if you go smoothly and slowly. The pull on the rope increases rapidly with speed. Go twice as fast and you exert four times the tension; triple your speed and you exert nine times as much. Ease into it and take up the strain gently. For towing heavy boats (whatever their size) and those longer than 20′, you’ll likely need a rope thicker than most heaving lines. Boaters on rough water will want more, and fatter, rope than those on small, calm lakes. Stow the line in your seat locker so it’ll be on hand if something goes wrong. Even better, when you see a drifting boat, complete with a damsel or dude in distress, you can be the hero.
With thanks to our experts:
Sara Anghel, National Marine Manufacturers Association; Morton Biback, Canadian Power and Sail Squadrons; Scott Brundle, Town and Country Marine; Kevin Crittenden, Legend Boats; Bob Eaton, Boating Ontario; Harold Foyster, The Boat Guy; David Harris, Harris + Ellis Yachts; Terry Hynes, Toth Marine; Brian Hough, Baysville Marina; Frank Kelley, Mercury Marine; Lori Mason, The Store Mason’s Chandlery; Gilles Morel, Canadian Petroleum Products Institute; Deborah Paris, Paris Marine; Jay Poole, Buckeye Marine; Tim Salmon, The Prop Shop
This article was originally published on May 3, 2011